

Metal dowel pins inserted through the neck cup and into the frame neck keep the neck cup from rotating. This is achieved with 8 metal dowel pins which are mounted into the lower triple tree and the neck. For this to work, both the slotted plate and the neck cup need to be fixed in place. The slot allows the front end to turn 45 degrees in each direction. You have a slotted plate which mounts onto the lower triple tree right under the bearing and your lower neck cup has a “front tooth” that rides in the slot when everything is assembled. The internal fork lock has a pretty simple design. The "front tooth" on the neck cup fits into the slot on the plate under the bearing creating an internal fork stop. Luckily, you can buy neck cups with a built-in internal fork stop which solves all your problems and looks clean to boot.

Since I am using neck cups on my aftermarket frame, this set up obviously no longer functions. The stock frame neck has a nice rectangular piece welded right on the front which works with two castings on the lower triple tree to provide a means for keeping the front end from turning too far in either direction. Now the real issue arose when I started trying to figure out the fork stops. Of course, they did require being turned down a few thousandths to fit into the neck, but that is no surprise when assembling parts from different manufacturers… Harley used this same arrangement for years and getting neck cups is no big deal. The stock Harley neck allows for the bearings to fit right in the casting whereas the aftermarket frame needed neck cups added to house the bearings. The heart of the problem was the frame neck. Standard aftermarket frame neck, without castings for bearings or fork stops.
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